But you didn’t directly plug it in, there was always some sort of adapter involved (thanks for the generous ports, Valve). There must have been something wrong with the adapters. Sometimes, you just have to flip USB-C over for it to work (thanks, Intel).
I rather like the Logitech MX 2. It’s comfortable (for a right hander), and is shockingly reliable for a bluetooth device.
My recc for a keyboard is “good god never an Epomaker”. They look like a discount Keychron, but are fucking useless. A stuttttering messs.
This is all assuming that the dollar is worth anything in the future. The way things are going, uh maybe not
You could try working a little deoxyit or contact cleaner into the switch. Considering that it didn’t have a period of being flaky before it died, I am not optimistic that this will help.
Isn’t it great that the most important button is soldered on the backside of the mainboard, and is also fragile af?
With the way that memory prices are going, Valve is going to bring back the 64GB model.
/s
/not s
My left stick started jittering after a year. Switched the sticks out with Gulikit, and they were fine for a few years, then the right stick went bonkers psycho.
Replaced it with a̶n̶o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶-b̶r̶a̶n̶d̶ Gulikit again, cuz that was the only make available. Sigh.
When you’re playing HDR, any movie can be a Smurf Movie.
Some people don’t want the same beige tower as you.
I don’t think the rest of Linux is ready for HDR.
And judging by my mum’s LG OLED tv, nobody else is ready for HDR either.
Glass Harmonica Erotica
Öoo was a nice quick play. Logic Bombs is a brutal puzzler with a fantastic Gameboy rom included.
Hey, speaking of “early lcd models”, how is your power button holding up? Mine is getting flaky. Have to press it a couple of times, maybe tilt it a little, to get it to work.
Go to bluetooth settings, and tap on each of your paired devices. There is a (probably brand new) setting to Allow this device to wake the deck.
Heroic’s installed as a Flatpak, right? Any path that flatpak doesn’t actually allow out of the sandbox is going to be inside the sandbox.
find ~/.var/app/com.heroicgameslauncher.hgl -iname games
Huh. Mmmaybe the LCD model has board revisions that are still different enough to trip things up? It’s definitely a bug to have wireplumber not “do the right thing no matter what hardware it booted up on today”, it would probably take a Valve engineer to chase that down and submit a patch.
👆 this sounds like the most probable fix. I suspect OP buried a very critical factoid - moving the drive between OLED and LCD models. The systems have some significant hardware differences (as evidenced by the Windows drivers changing so much that Valve took a long time to update em). Somewhere, Pipewire has squirreled away details about routing or preferred devices from the old system.
Heck, there might be journalctl log entries being generated you plug into the headphone jack. Pipewire could already be trying to tell you exactly what’s wrong.
Fields of Mistria.
Just finished up “Last Time I Saw You”, ehh I think it’s the weak one in the “Until Then & Space For The Unbound” untrilogy.
The HDMI port on any dock is output only. You would have to get an HDMI capture adapter to go that route, and watching those live with low lag is problematic. Beware of capture adapters that are USB 2.0 (a lot of cheapos will lie about this).
Another way to go would be Steam Link over wired ethernet.
One last way, which involves only one higher-end USB-C cable, would be to directly plug the deck to the tablet. One (or both) would act in a CDC-ether role to network the two together. (How do you simultaneously access the internet/Steam’s servers?). This setup is very fussy on the software side. I have been remarkably unsuccessful at connecting the deck to a laptop in this fashion, but Android is more open to doing “dual role” usb stuff.
Steam should be loading a separate controller config for every game, or at very least loading a default profile of “every button is literally the same as on an Xbox controller”. A weird SteamInput config shouldn’t affect across all games, I think.
Does it act up in Desktop mode? How about if Steam is closed, and you play something from Heroic?
It’s possible that a hardware fault is sending insane inputs. Bad connections to the controller-sub-boards? The controller microchip just going batty?
Here’s how I did it: take a can of electronic contact cleaner, dribble it in the switch. You have to open up the system to really get it in there (remove your SD card first). Just a drop or two, work it in, repeat.