Firmly agree. Non-stick is the result of PFAS (specifically PTFE) being temporarily bonded to a metal pan. You can buy a pan with better metal, but PFAS aren’t durable, so you are eating it right away, and it doesn’t break down once it’s in your body.

“Ceramic” nonstick is not ceramic, it’s just another coating. It’s likely healthier, but also not as durable as metal.

Cast iron properly used is fairly nonstick, and the coating is not harmful, and it’s self healing. Carbon steel works the same as cast iron from a non-stick perspective. Also, for most foods, sticking is not a bad thing; people just need to let the food cook until it releases without trying to poke it around. Stainless steel is super cheap and durable.

Read “a mathematicians lament”, by Paul Lockhart. It was originally a short essay (25 pages you can find free online), but expanded into a book that I haven’t read yet.

In a similar vein is Shape, by Jordan Ellenberg.

You linked right to the actual text of the law, awesome! Another fun thing in here is that it also prevents landlords from requiring tenants to keep a lawn.

https://lemm.ee/post/12225155

This post has some discussion on it. The tl;dr is that for a BIFL item, you need to ask yourself if you need a hiking jacket that is water resistant and can breathe, or if you need an actually waterproof jacket that doesn’t breathe.

If you want a hiking jacket, they are mainly a consumable item, but you can get some that hold up better than others; look for a 3 layer construction. I’d really advise not using a hiking jacket as a “walking around town” jacket.

For a “walking around town” jacket, you can go with an oiled or waxed fabric if you want to stick with non-synthetics. If you are okay with synthetics, you can go for a polyurethane jacket that is 100% waterproof. Polyurethane rain jackets seem to have fallen out of favor over the past 25 years as people have preferred lightweight goretex jackets with PFAS coatings. I googled around to see who even makes good PU jackets, and it looks like despite being a otherwise pricy brand, Helly Hansen makes cheap PU jackets.

Personally, I’ve been a fan of saxx. Expensive, but I’ll try and get a new pair if I see them for half off.

To be honest, for everyday wear, I’ve got cheap costco brand underwear that’s lasted me probably 200 wears. I only use non-cotton underwear for athletic activities, though, so that cuts down on a lot of wear and tear.

I’ve heard good things about Duluth trading company, but never tried them.

There are BifL socks though, called “Darn Tough” which have a lifetime warranty. They have 1 competitor but I forgot the brand. Both use marino wool.

I don’t really think socks can be a BIFL item. Darn tough is definitely one of my favorites, but I’ve worn through pairs. Merino is a weak fiber (which is what makes it soft), so it wears out. I’ve got some pairs where the nylon structure of the sock is intact, but the wool itself has been abraded away. Yes, I could swap them for new ones, but I don’t want to exploit a company who is trying to do things right.

There’s a few companies making good, made in America wool socks. Farm to Feet, Camel City mill, grip6, a decent part of smartwool’s portfolio, and probably a few others.

I guess the whole point isn’t actually things that last forever, it’s things that reach the optimum of longevity, eco friendliness, and performance.

Bombas are just regular cotton/synthetic socks (though nice ones as far as I can tell).

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arrakis_Planitia

I’ll copy-paste what I put in that previous thread.

You want real, non-stretch jeans or canvas. Bonus if they tell you the weight of the fabric. Once you get any spandex in there, you are limited in strength. I also always go for pants with reinforced crotches, cause otherwise that fails first for me.

In order for pants to stretch, the cotton (or whatever other blend of fibers) is essentially held together by spandex fibers. You might get the feel of the cotton, but the structural integrity of the garment is dependent on the spandex. Spandex wears out, especially if washed and dried a lot. In some cases, this results in the pants just getting permanently stretched out, but in other cases the fibers just come apart in a way that you can’t really repair.

I really like pants with a crotch gusset, because that’s where mine typically wear out. That gusset prevents the wear out, but it is also easier to repair if necessary. I have a pair of pants with a spandex blend gusset, and plain cotton throughout the rest of the pants, and ibthink that’s a good combo of durability, repairability, and mobility.

Personally, if I’m buying a car with 150,000 miles on it, I’d expect and be fine with some cosmetic damage. $1500 bucks just isn’t worth it; you aren’t going to get that return on investment from the sale price. The things that I think could boost sale price without too much cost from you is clearing up the headlights if they are cloudy, and a good deep clean of all the upholstery.

Happened at Kent state, I believe. There was an old story from Inuits about a man who was being forced off his land, so he refused the leave, and they took all of his gear and clothing, hoping he would go with his family rather than freeze to death. He then allegedly pooped, fashioned it into a knife, and killed a sled dog for the hide so he could survive.

The story was recorded by a reputable person (though probably told to him by Inuits that thought it was hilarious). In order to prove it was possible, or not, this experimental archeology lab tried it out. Hilariously enough, they tried to do it while on a regular “western” diet, as well as an “inuit” diet of mostly fish and very little fiber.

That’s because the rice setting is a bit of a sham. The rice mode just sets a timer for the rice to cook, assuming you are just using cheap, commodity-level white rice, but any other type of rice, you have to adjust. You can make good rice in an instant pot, it just takes more work. You need to know the right amount of time and pressure for that specific type of rice.

Rice cookers have one or more sensors that detect when the rice is done (e.g., when the pot gets hotter than the boiling temp of water, so it knows all the water is absorbed). That makes purpose built rice cookers more foolproof.

For a boot to be long lasting, it has to be repairable, e.g. a Goodyear or storm welt or stitch down. Glued together shoes will never be BIFL because the soles are a wear item, particularly for hiking, because the rubber is often softer to better grip trails, but that trades off for less durability.

Anything with foam in it is a no-go because foam breaks down over time. For waterproofing, there’s a few different types. Rubberized boots are truly waterproof, and fairly durable, but they don’t breath at all, so you probably don’t want that for hiking. Performance waterproof boots will often have a gortex lining, so the leather can get wet, but that water doesn’t penetrate. That works really well, but the membranes break down over time, so they aren’t perfect. The last option is if the leather itself is waterproofed. This also makes it much less breathable, but it is more durable, and you can “repair” it by making sure to keep up with conditioners, etc.

I think if I were in your place, I’d look for leather boots with a storm welt, and then I’d wax all around the base and over the toe area. That will get those areas mostly waterproof, but you could leave the top of the upper unwaxed so it stays breathable. You’d have that area covered by your pants, or ideally gaiters, so water can’t get in.

I’m not sure about brands in the UK, though.

There’s basically a tree of operations that have been applied to a model. At any point, you can go back and edit what you’ve done at a previous step. For example, if you padded a feature out 10 mm, then added more stuff onto that feature, you could still go back and change that padding operation to 15 mm.

I’m still super new to freecad, and I haven’t done anything too complex in it yet, but my understanding is that some types of those changes can result in the topological naming problem. The way I understand it, when you make a shape, the software numbers all of the segments, vertices, and faces. If later changes are applied to those numbered faces, etc, and you go back and redo the operation that made those faces, etc, in a different order, the numbering will be different, and it will break your model.

There is a fork of freecad that fixes that whole issue, but the fix hasn’t been implemented yet in the main fork cause it’s pretty foundational to the working of freecad, so there’s a lot of things that can break

If the membrane itself is ripped up, there’s not much you can do. That basically means it’s toast. I guess you could wash and recoat with nikwax, but without the membrane, it basically becomes a water resistant windbreaker. You also wouldn’t want to use it in situations where you’d be working up a sweat because all that sweat wouldn’t have anywhere to go.

Peregrine 1 is not NASA’s. NASA paid for some payloads on the lander, but the lander itself is from Astrobiotic. It’s an important distinction because it seems like people are trying to blame NASA for whatever went wrong.

They are mostly ground source over there, which shouldn’t be affected by cold snaps.

Because no one has explained it, loctite comes in different strengths. Red is supposed to be permanent, blue is supposed to be able to break free again. For this application, you’d want blue to hold the nut in place.

Carhartt, just make sure it’s pants that are supposed to be “work” pants. It’s become a fashionable brand now, so I think they make a lot of casual clothes.

Duluth firehose pants are definitely good.

A couple brands I haven’t seen mentioned yet:

ArborWear, who specializes in logging apparel makes good tough canvas pants, and they are affordable for what you get. I have a flannel lined pair that are very close to being stiff enough to stand up on their own.

Filson pants cost an arm and a leg, but should be good from what I’ve seen.

Basically, you want real, non-stretch jeans or canvas. Bonus if they tell you the weight of the fabric. Once you get any spandex in there, you are limited in strength. I also always go for pants with reinforced crotches, cause otherwise that fails first for me.

It’s a plastic ball with a tiny hole in it. When you open the beer, the compressed gas, nitrogen and co2, sprays out of that hole into the beer, making it creamy and frothy. Guinness isn’t meant to be carbonated like most beer, so it’s never “foamy”