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I will do so. Thanks!
I will do so. Thanks!
I’m very much a RTFM guy myself. So much so that I’m getting a front plate that says RTFM. It always amazes me when people kill good equipment through lack of easy maintenance that is clear in the documentation or can’t solve a simple problem because they didn’t look at the instructions. My career is now based on my ability to implement what the instructions say (thus the plate).
I don’t always follow the instructions; but I damn well know when I’m violating them, and why, as well as assessing the risks as best I can. That’s why I’m asking: the instructions didn’t make sense to me but I’m not an electrician or automotive engineer.
I’m real picky about my truck. It has a few dents and paint chips but is pretty cherry. 190k miles. It just got a clean bill of health from a trans shop and I had them add a trans cooler. About to replace plugs, wires. Doing my own hitch install because I don’t trust most shops to drill my frame or torque correctly. Also going to try and find an oil leak. Getting a few drops a day. Hope it’s something simple.
My truck has only surface rust as it has never been on salted roads. I’ve got a 500watt amp under the seat grounded to the cab and I downgraded the fuse to 30amps because it didn’t need the 50watt or whatever it was the kit came with.
My gut says that running the ground to the battery and using an auto reset breaker are a bad idea. However, my gut can be wrong and I’ll ground to the battery and use the auto reset breakers.
Thank you very much for the advice!
In case of a fused breaker?
Hmm. So you strongly recommend wiring to the battery and using the auto reset breakers as the risk of brake failure is greater than an unattended short.
I’m just a jack at auto repair and electronics and haven’t dealt with trailers since I was a kid on the farm. If you don’t mind me asking, what is your experience with trailers and such?
7-way kit is ETBC7 from etrailer. Breakers included are Pollak PK54230 and PK54240. These are thermal overload breakers and typical of 12V auto reset breakers. They get hot and a bimetallic strip flips up breaking the circuit.
These breakers are used instead of a fuse. That’s why I’m thinking of using manual reset.
I can just see them ticking away if there was an unattended short.
Edit: Also, the instructions on that ETBC7 kit include grounding directly to the battery. I assume, since so many people suck at electrical, that’s the safest way to ensure there is a proper ground. I’ll be making my own good ground somewhere with bare metal.
Star Trek: 25th Anniversary on DOS and Gameboy. DOS version was superior even though my mother threw away the manual in a move. I had to figure out the system locations by randomly going to all of them.
Oh jeebus fucking christ. Sometimes the dumb hurts and then you get the existential dread knowing you’re about to have to call this moron. And, even better, they usually make more money than you.
That’s a pretty good idea. I’ve got Maxi fuses in 40 and 50amp values. Maxis are slow blow, IIRC. May do this.