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Joined 4 months ago
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Cake day: June 23rd, 2024

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  • What kind of image is it? Reducing the number of colors in a PNG is usually inferior to JPEG compression. It can be OK for screenshots of texts and simple drawing but otherwise you’re better off with lossy JPEG or WebP.

    Some instance admins don’t even use the built-in pict-rs server so media cannot be uploaded natively at all.

    Some only allow month-old accounts to post images up to 500 kiB.

    Others leave the limits on the relatively high defaults: 10 MiB per file and up to 900 frames for soundless animation/video, which must be in WebM format and VP9 codec (or it will need to be reencoded, which usually fails because of the short timeout). It’s easy to use ffmpeg or HandBrake to create low-bitrate 30-second HD videos that fit but the limits are not visible to users and even the defaults are nowhere to be found in Lemmy documentation, I had to read the source code.




  • Well, you have a lot more experience than I do. I don’t think I can provide good advice but the idea of another circuit borking it is interesting, I’d put voltmeter(s) on the supply voltage(s) of the deflection circuit and check for changes.

    Please don’t call the unit “CRT”, it’s weird to read phrases like “when the CRT is apart” because you can’t really make a tube work again if it’s been apart.

    However, it makes me think if one could smash all tubes in a vacuum tube TV in the vacuum of space or one big glass chamber and have it still working. Or build a monitor into a tube that looks like an overly long CRT but just needs power and video. Maybe even include an IR remote receiver for digital picture adjustment. This is way beyond what I will ever be able to do, though, and there is little reason to make this gimmicky thing that is worse than Philco Predicta (TV model line with CRTs outside cabinets) in almost every way.


  • I assume datasheet websites just have pages for every combination of 3-12 alphanumerics to appear in search results, and then use shitty fuzzy string matching tactics to find “most relevant” items. It would help if they managed to extract package marking codes from datasheets so you can find SOT-23 parts by their 2-3 character codes, or whatever obscure system used by individual IC manufacturers. I think they have resources to make the experience way better but they prefer to turn high profits. Personally, I would not mind trying AI (not neccessarily a LLM) for the data extraction but I’d be cautious and only release it if it is decently reliable (but I know they wouldn’t bother with that).


  • Pretty sad that a technical manual for the monitor was most likely created but just not digitized in a way you can find. Intermittent faults are very hard to diagnose. What I would try:

    • I assume you’ve cleaned the potentiometer, which is also easy to check with an ohmmeter (mind the polarity or desolder it to protect the rest of the circuit).
    • Poke the circuit board with a non-conductive object to find loose solder joints or components with bad contacts inside. If the fault is not mechanical, it might be an overheating component.
    • Try adding a fan temporarily to see if the fault appears later, or use a thermal camera to find semiconductors that might go near their threshold temperature (150 °C for the silicon die).
    • Find points in the horizontal deflection circuit where voltage or waveform changes as the fault manifests.

  • Datasheet websites do that a lot. If it’s PDF.js, Firefox’s PDF viewer (or a fork of it), I just right-click to “Show only this frame” and it goes fullscreen. It might have shenanigans such as disabled printing but you can press Ctrl+Shift+E and reload to check network activity for what address the PDF is loaded from and save that.

    The worse ones are PDFs that exist only for SEO and contain nothing but keywords and a link to a paywall.







  • 1.5 V, up to 1 A… That’s very little power, barely enough for a preamplifier.

    I’m confused as to what this was used for. There are AM travelers’ information stations at 1610 kHz in the US so the unit would be installed in a vehicle but then it is no problem to use a separate power cable or a 3-wire one because it’s just a few meters at most. And the frequency is within the MW band so it can be received by any car’s radio anyway, no need for a separate device.

    Edit: It says “1-60 MHz”, not “1.60 MHz”, which I couldn’t make out because of the low resolution. That makes it way more versatile.